Seattle Siding Replacement Done Right — 30-Year Hardie Warranty, No Overselling
Not every siding problem means you need a full replacement. GP General Corp gives Seattle homeowners an honest assessment first — and if replacement is the right call, we do it with proper substrate inspection, WRB, flashing, and manufacturer-certified installation that actually protects your home for decades.
WA License #GPGENGC830KD — Verify 
Hardie Certified Installer ⭐ 5-Star Rated on Google 
King & Snohomish CountiesGP General Corp replaces full siding systems across Seattle, the Eastside, and Snohomish County — tear-off to sheathing, dry-rot repair, new drainable WRB and rainscreen, then James Hardie, cedar, metal, or LP SmartSide. WA license GPGENGC830KD, MBAKS member, rated 5.0 on Google. Real installed rates on our pricing page; free written quote after an on-site assessment.
By Paul Gubenya — Owner, James Hardie Certified Installer · WA License #GPGENGC830KD · MBAKS Member · Rated 5.0 on Google · (425) 344-9635
What Homeowners Say
Real reviews from our Google profile — unedited, from real projects.
“We recently had Paul with GP General repair a damaged corner protector and sidings. His estimate was reasonable, his availability was timely, and his job was excellent. Our home hadn’t been re-painted in a while and the paint had considerably faded, yet he was able to match the color perfectly. Now we know who to turn to when in need of another repair work.”
“GP General replaced LP siding on our garage. Paul was very thorough when he came out to do the estimate; he listened to my concerns and was able to work out solutions on the spot. His crew did a great job and were very courteous. They also were careful about cleaning up (I didn’t find any nails!). Really happy with the job and can recommend GP General.”
“I highly recommend GP General Corp for siding replacement. We recently had our wood siding replaced with James Hardie lap siding, and Paul and his team did an excellent job.”
Why Seattle Homeowners Trust Us With Their Siding
You’ve probably gotten a few quotes for Seattle siding replacement already. You’ve heard the pitches. Here’s what makes us different — and why our customers don’t shop around the next time.
Related project: Seattle metal coping replacement — failed cedar to 24g AEP standing-seam →
“Will they catch the damage I can’t see?”
Most siding fails because of what’s behind it — rot, failed flashing, moisture you can’t see from the curb. With 15+ years walking Seattle walls, we don’t guess. We probe, document, and re-engineer the wall assembly with drainable WRB, integrated flashings, and rainscreen ventilation built for Pacific Northwest weather.
Building Science First“I’m tired of high-pressure salespeople.”
No same-day discounts. No “this price is only good if you sign tonight.” We give you a free written assessment, a fixed-price contract, and the time to think it over. Most of our work comes from neighbors — you don’t earn that doing it any other way.
No-Pressure Quotes“Will the warranty actually mean anything?”
A warranty is only as good as the install behind it. We’re a certified James Hardie installer, which means every panel goes up to manufacturer spec — gap, fastener, primer, every detail. That’s what keeps your 30-year Hardie product warranty enforceable if you ever need to use it.
Manufacturer-Backed“How do I know they won’t disappear after the check clears?”
Owner-run with 15+ years of Seattle siding experience behind it. WA License #GPGENGC830KD backed by a $30,000 contractor bond — both verifiable any time at L&I. You’ll work with Paul start to finish. Same person quoting, walking the job, and answering the phone in year five if a question ever comes up.
Owner AccountableReady to talk about your project?
Free walk-through with Paul. No-pressure quote. Honest assessment of what your home needs.
When Do You Actually Need Siding Replacement?
Inspect your siding yourself first — DIY guide →
Here’s the thing — a lot of contractors will tell you that you need a full replacement when you don’t. And a lot of homeowners put off a replacement they genuinely need because they’re hoping repairs will buy them more time. Both situations cost you money. Let’s talk about when each approach actually makes sense.
If the damage is limited to a small area — a few cracked boards, some localized dry rot around a window, storm damage on one elevation — targeted repair usually makes more sense than tearing everything off. We can match most existing siding profiles, address the moisture source that caused the damage, and fix it for a fraction of the cost of replacement. If the underlying sheathing and WRB are intact on the rest of your home, there’s no reason to replace siding that’s still doing its job.
If more than 20–25% of your siding shows damage, replacement almost always makes more financial sense than piecemeal repairs. Here’s why: once you’re repairing that much surface area, you’re paying for most of the labor twice — once for repairs now and again for the rest of the house in a few years. Other clear signals: hardboard siding that’s swelling and delaminating (it never stops), original cedar that’s 40+ years old with widespread paint failure, or multiple areas where moisture has gotten behind the siding and into the sheathing.
The honest answer is that we can’t always tell you whether it’s a repair or a replacement from photos alone. Some problems look worse than they are. Some look minor from the outside but have significant rot behind them. That’s why we do an in-person inspection with a moisture meter before recommending anything. We’d rather spend an hour at your home and give you the right answer than guess from a truck.
What We Find Behind Old Siding in Seattle
This is the part most homeowners don’t see until demo day. After 20+ years of Seattle rain, what’s behind your siding is often more important than the siding itself. Here’s what we run into regularly.
Hardboard siding (Masonite, ABTco, etc.) was installed on thousands of Seattle homes in the ’80s and ’90s. It absorbs moisture like a sponge. By the time the face starts bubbling, the back is often swollen to twice its original thickness. The real problem: it holds moisture against the sheathing behind it. We’ve pulled hardboard off homes in Ballard and Greenwood and found the OSB sheathing rotted to mush behind it. See how we restore dry rot at tearoff →
Homes built before 1990 in Seattle frequently have no WRB at all — the siding was nailed straight to bare sheathing or felt paper that disintegrated decades ago. Without a functioning weather-resistive barrier, every nail hole and gap in the siding is a direct moisture pathway into your wall cavity. This is the #1 thing we fix during siding replacement, and it’s the main reason re-siding properly is worth doing — you get to install the moisture management layer that was never there.
Failed or missing flashing at windows is the single most common cause of structural rot in Seattle homes. When the old siding comes off, we almost always find damage concentrated around window corners and the bases of door frames. The siding itself might look okay from the street, but the framing behind it has been getting wet for years through a failed seal. This is why we inspect the substrate at every single opening — and why we budget for some level of rot repair on almost every replacement project.
Moisture-damaged sheathing attracts carpenter ants, and we see it frequently in neighborhoods with mature tree canopy — Ravenna, Maple Leaf, north Capitol Hill. Mold growth on interior sheathing surfaces is common wherever moisture has been getting in long-term. Both issues are addressable during a siding replacement (you’ve got the walls open), but they need to be found and dealt with before the new siding goes on.
We regularly find previous “repairs” that made things worse: caulk sealing moisture in rather than keeping it out, new boards nailed over rotted substrate, flashing that was installed backwards. These shortcuts hide problems without solving them. A proper siding replacement is the chance to fix everything correctly.
Most Seattle homes built before 2010 have siding installed flat against housewrap with zero drainage gap. In our climate, that means moisture that gets behind the siding — and some always does — sits there with nowhere to go. A modern rainscreen system solves this by creating a ventilated gap that lets moisture drain and air circulate. Adding a rainscreen during replacement is one of the highest-value upgrades you can make to your home’s longevity.
How We Replace Siding — From First Visit to Final Walkthrough
We don’t have a sales team. Paul comes to your home, looks at your siding, and gives you a straight answer. Here’s what the process looks like from start to finish.
Not a salesperson — the guy who actually runs the projects. Paul inspects every elevation, probes suspect areas with a moisture meter, checks around windows and penetrations, and takes photos of everything he finds. This usually takes 45–60 minutes. At the end, you get an honest recommendation: repair, partial replacement, or full replacement — and exactly why.
You get a detailed written scope that spells out exactly what’s included: material type and profile, WRB system, flashing details, fastener type, trim, disposal. Not a vague one-line quote. If there are options — Hardie vs. cedar, different profiles — we price them separately so you can compare. We also include allowances for likely substrate repair based on what we found during inspection.
We pull the building permit (required in Seattle and most surrounding cities for full siding replacement). We schedule the project with a realistic timeline — not an optimistic one. You’ll know the start date, the expected duration, and what to expect each week. We also coordinate any required inspections with the city.
Old siding comes off and we inspect every square foot of sheathing and framing. We take photos of everything — any rot, any damage, any areas that need repair. If we find damage beyond what we estimated, we show you the photos and discuss the repair scope before proceeding. No surprises. Any rotted sheathing or framing gets replaced before the new system goes on.
We install a code-compliant weather-resistive barrier, properly lapped and taped. Every window, door, vent, and penetration gets correct flashing integrated with the WRB. Where appropriate, we install a ventilated rainscreen. Then the new siding goes on to manufacturer specifications — correct fastener pattern, correct overlap, correct clearances. This is the part where most of the quality difference happens, and it’s the part you can’t see once it’s done.
City inspector signs off on the installation. Then we walk the entire project with you — every elevation, every detail. We point out the things you should keep an eye on long-term and show you the photo documentation from the project. You get a complete project file with before, during, and after photos plus all warranty documentation.
Siding Materials We Install
Compare Hardie vs Cedar vs LP vs Metal head-to-head →
We’re not locked into one manufacturer. Different homes need different materials. Here’s what we work with and when each one makes sense. Each material has its own dedicated page with full details on installation, pricing, and what to expect.
The most popular re-siding choice in Seattle for good reason. Non-combustible, doesn’t absorb moisture, 30-year warranty. We’re a James Hardie Certified Installer and HZ10 certified — which means your warranty is actually valid.
Full Hardie Details →
Natural beauty that no manufactured product matches. Right for Craftsman homes, bungalows, and homeowners who want real wood character. Requires six-side priming, rainscreen, and stainless fasteners to perform in Seattle’s climate.
Full Cedar Details →
Aluminum and steel panel systems for contemporary architecture and commercial-style residential projects. Extremely durable, zero moisture absorption, distinctive modern aesthetic. Increasingly popular on Seattle new construction and remodels.
Full Metal Details →
Engineered wood siding that’s lighter and easier to work with than Hardie. Comparable in cost to fiber cement, LP SmartSide is prized for its authentic wood grain texture. Treated with SmartGuard for decay and insect resistance. Solid performer in Seattle’s climate.
Full LP SmartSide Details →Still Deciding? Let Us Take a Look First.
Most Seattle homeowners don’t need everything they’re being quoted. Paul walks your home, checks for hidden moisture damage, and tells you the truth — even if that means you don’t need full replacement yet.
Response within 24 hours • No sales pitch • Honest written assessment
What Siding Replacement Costs in Seattle
See full 2026 cost breakdown by material → · See pricing rates →
We’re going to give you real numbers because vague pricing helps no one. These are installed costs including old siding removal, WRB, flashing, and new cladding — the way we do it, with nothing skipped. Your actual cost depends on your home’s size, material choice, complexity, and how much substrate repair is needed.
| Material | Installed Cost (per sq ft) | Typical Seattle Home (1,500–2,500 sq ft walls) |
|---|---|---|
| James Hardie HZ10 | $14–$20 | $21,000–$50,000 |
| Western Red Cedar (Clear) | $30–$40 | $45,000–$100,000 |
| LP SmartSide | $15–$21 | $20,000–$48,000 |
| Metal Panel Systems | $30–$55 | $45,000–$135,000 |
Our quotes are fixed-price contracts. The number we agree on is the number you pay — no change orders, no “we found more work” add-ons after the fact. The one exception: substrate repair. Nobody can tell you what’s behind your siding until we take it off. That’s why we price substrate repair separately with a clear per-square-foot rate, and we show you photos of any damage before we touch it. Everything else — siding, WRB, flashing, trim, labor, permits, cleanup — is locked in from day one.
Old siding removal and disposal, WRB installation, flashing at all windows and penetrations, new siding installed to manufacturer specs, trim, caulking, and site cleanup. Permit fees ($300–$700 in most Seattle-area cities) are included in our quotes. This price is locked — it won’t change.
Substrate repair (rot, damaged sheathing, framing) — because no one can know the full extent until the old siding comes off. We include allowances for likely repair in our initial quote with a clear per-square-foot rate. If we find damage, we show you photos and discuss it before proceeding. Painting, rainscreen upgrade, and metal coping are also listed separately.
About that cheap quote you got. If you’re comparing bids and one is significantly lower than the others, look at what’s missing. Common things that low-ball contractors skip: proper WRB installation (or they staple housewrap and don’t tape the seams), back-priming on cedar, flashing at windows, pulling a permit, using the correct fasteners for the material. These aren’t upsells — they’re the difference between siding that lasts 30 years and siding that starts failing in 5. Get a detailed quote so you can compare apples to apples.
Not sure where to start?
We’ll come out, look at your siding, and give you a straight answer — even if the answer is “you don’t need us yet.”
The Difference Between a Good Replacement and a Bad One
From the street, a cheap siding job and a properly done siding job can look identical on day one. The difference shows up at year 3, year 5, and year 10. Here’s what separates the two — and what to ask about when you’re comparing contractors.
Good vs. Bad Siding Replacement at a Glance
A side-by-side look at where corner-cutting shows up later — and how we do it differently.
| What Matters | Cheap Siding Job | GP General Corp |
|---|---|---|
| Weather-Resistive Barrier (WRB) | Stapled housewrap with untaped seams, not integrated with window flanges — every gap becomes a moisture entry point. | Seams taped, lapped shingle-style, and integrated at every window and door flange per manufacturer specs. Benjamin Obdyke HydroGap Drainable as our standard WRB. |
| Substrate Inspection | New siding goes over rotted sheathing because repairs cost time and money. The rot keeps spreading under the new wall. | Every square foot of sheathing and framing is inspected and photo-documented once the old siding is off. Deterioration gets repaired before anything new goes on. |
| Rainscreen / Drainage Gap | Siding installed flat against housewrap with zero drainage gap. Trapped moisture degrades the wall assembly from behind in Seattle’s climate. | Ventilated drainage gap recommended on most Seattle projects — especially north-facing walls and shaded exposures. Cheap insurance against PNW moisture. |
| Permits & Inspections | No permit pulled. Nobody verifies the WRB or flashing before it gets covered up. If something fails later, you have no recourse. | Permits pulled on every project. The city inspector verifies WRB and flashing before siding goes on — accountability built into the job. |
| Fasteners & Install Spec | Wrong-length nails, electro-galvanized fasteners on cedar (they streak), or an over-driving pneumatic gun. Voids manufacturer warranty on day one. | Certified James Hardie installer following manufacturer fastener patterns exactly — the only way to keep your 30-year product warranty valid. |
| Cedar Prep | Cedar installed without back-priming. Unprimed backs absorb wall-cavity moisture, causing cupping and paint failure within 3–5 years. | Cedar back-primed before install so both faces are sealed against moisture — paint stays on, boards stay flat. |
| Documentation | No photos, no paper trail. If you have a warranty question years later, nobody can prove what’s behind the siding. | Full photo file delivered at project close: substrate condition, WRB, flashing details, finished product. Warranty claims have evidence. |
| Project Close-Out | Crew leaves the moment the last board is up. Caulk gaps, paint touch-ups, and cleanup become your problem. | 20-point final walk-through covers caulk lines, paint touch-ups, downspout reattachment, gutter reset, and full site cleanup before we call it done. |
When Seattle Requires a Permit for Re-Siding
Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections (SDCI) requires a building permit when you replace more than 50% of an exterior wall’s siding, when the work changes the structure or weather barrier, or when the home is in a designated landmark or shoreline zone. Smaller patch jobs and like-for-like repairs under that threshold typically don’t need a permit.
Most full re-sides on Seattle homes do trigger a permit because the work usually involves removing the old siding, replacing rotten sheathing, upgrading the WRB (weather-resistive barrier), and re-flashing windows — all of which the city wants to see inspected.
What we do: on every Seattle project we identify whether a permit is required during the assessment, pull it on your behalf when it is, schedule the rough-in and final inspections with SDCI, and hand you the closed permit at project completion. Outside of Seattle proper, we follow the same process with the local AHJ (Bellevue, Kirkland, Redmond, Mercer Island, Edmonds, Everett each have their own building department).
Why it matters: unpermitted re-sides become a problem when you sell — inspectors flag it, buyers’ lenders ask about it, and the city can require you to retroactively pull a permit and open up the work for inspection. Pulling the permit up front is cheaper than fixing it later.
Siding Replacement Seattle — FAQ
How do I know if I need new siding or just repairs?
What happens if you find rot when you take off the old siding?
Do I need a permit for siding replacement in Seattle?
How long will siding replacement take?
Can I stay in my house during siding replacement?
What’s included in your quote?
Is your quote a fixed price or an estimate?
Why are your prices higher than the cheapest bid I got?
Siding Replacement Across Seattle
We replace siding in every Seattle neighborhood. Each area has its own housing stock, climate exposure, and common siding problems — we know them all.
Outside Seattle? We Cover Your City Too.
We replace siding throughout King and Snohomish counties — all the way up to Skagit. Each city has its own dedicated page with neighborhood-specific notes, local permit info, and recent project examples.
Eastside (King County)
North Sound & Skagit
Questions Homeowners Ask Us About Their Last Contractor
These come up on almost every job. If any of them sound familiar, you’re not alone.
“Why did my siding fail after only 8 years?”
Usually because there was no WRB or drainage gap behind it. The previous contractor installed siding flat against bare sheathing. Moisture got trapped, and the siding paid the price. We see this on at least half the tear-offs we do.
“Why didn’t my contractor find the rot?”
Because they didn’t probe behind the siding before quoting. They gave you a price based on what they could see from the street. We use moisture meters and physical probing on every assessment — before we give you a number.
“Why is my quote so much higher than the last one?”
Probably because we’re including things the last contractor left out: WRB, flashing, disposal, permits, substrate contingency. The “cheap” quote often becomes the expensive one when surprises hit on demo day. We’d rather tell you the real number upfront.
“Can you fix what another contractor did wrong?”
Yes. We regularly get called in to repair or re-do siding jobs that failed. We strip it, assess the damage, fix the substrate, install proper moisture management, and re-side correctly. It costs more than doing it right the first time — but we can make it right.
Done Dealing With Contractors Who Don’t Call Back?
Paul will come to your home, inspect your siding with a moisture meter, and tell you straight whether you need a repair, a partial replacement, or a full re-side — and exactly why. No pressure, no obligation. Just an honest answer from someone who does this every day.
GP General Corp · Siding Replacement Seattle · WA License #GPGENGC830KD — Verify · King & Snohomish Counties